Eastern Fox Squirrels and Gray Squirrels are everywhere in Georgetown — in the live oaks, along the fence lines, on every roofline. Most of the time that's fine. The problem starts when they find a gap in your home's exterior, chew it a little wider, and move in. Once they're in, they chew wiring, shred insulation, and can cause serious structural damage over a single winter.
Here's what professional squirrel exclusion actually involves — and why the foam, caulk, and plastic mesh fixes from the hardware store almost never hold.
Why Squirrels Are Harder to Exclude Than Most Animals
Squirrels have two things going for them that make them uniquely persistent: continuously growing incisors and excellent spatial memory. Their teeth grow throughout their lives, which means they chew constantly to keep them worn down. Wood, soft plastic, foam sealant, and standard window screen are not obstacles — they're chewing material. A squirrel that used to enter through a gap you've sealed will methodically chew a new gap nearby. They remember exactly where their entry point was.
The practical implication: exclusion materials need to be things squirrels physically cannot chew through.
Materials That Work vs. Materials That Don't
16-gauge Hardware Cloth (1/2" mesh)
Galvanized steel mesh. Squirrels can't chew through it. Used to cover vents and open gaps. Must be fastened with screws or staples into wood — not just pressed in.
Steel Flashing (26-gauge minimum)
Sheet metal bent and fastened over chewed wood edges. Eliminates the gnawable surface. Best for corners, rooflines, and wood fascia that's already been chewed.
Concrete / Mortar Fill
For gaps in masonry, brick, or concrete block. Not chewable. Must be fully cured before being considered sealed.
Steel Wool + Caulk (secondary gaps only)
Effective for very small gaps where hardware cloth can't be fitted. Steel wool is difficult to chew; caulk keeps it in place. Not primary exclusion for high-use entry points.
Expanding Foam Sealant
Great for air sealing. Useless for squirrel exclusion. They chew through it in minutes — it's softer than wood.
Plastic Mesh / Bird Netting
Too soft. Squirrels chew through plastic netting easily. Often seen stapled over vents — almost always fails within one season.
Standard Window Screen
Aluminum or fiberglass screen is not wildlife-grade. A squirrel can push through or chew through standard vent screening in minutes.
Caulk Alone
Caulk seals air gaps but is easily chewed. Using it as the sole exclusion material on an active entry point will not hold.
Where Squirrels Actually Get In: The 7 Entry Points to Check
1. Roof Vents
The most common entry point in Georgetown homes. Standard plastic louver vents are easily chewed. Replace with galvanized hardware cloth covers or commercial wildlife-rated vent covers. Check all gable vents and soffit vents.
2. Fascia Board Gaps
Where the fascia board meets the soffit, or where a fascia board has rotted or pulled away, squirrels will use the gap. They also chew through rotted wood fascia directly. Steel flashing over the gap edge eliminates the chewable surface.
3. Ridge Cap Gaps
The ridge cap at the top of the roof sometimes has gaps at the ends or where it meets a chimney. Less common but a reliable entry point for determined squirrels. Check the full ridge line from ground level with binoculars.
4. Dormer Corners and Roof Intersections
Where two roof planes meet, or where a dormer joins the main roof, there are often construction gaps. These are high on the house and easy to miss from the ground but are heavily used by squirrels as entry points.
5. Pipe Penetrations
HVAC, plumbing, and gas pipe penetrations through the exterior often have gaps around them. A 1.5-inch gap around a pipe is large enough for a squirrel. Metal collar or hardware cloth fill around all pipe penetrations.
6. Overhanging Tree Branches
This isn't a structural gap — it's an access point. Branches within 8–10 feet of the roofline give squirrels a direct launch point onto the roof and into vents. Trimming branches back is one of the most effective long-term deterrents.
7. Chimneys
An uncapped chimney is an open attic access. Squirrels, birds, and raccoons all use uncapped chimneys. A galvanized steel chimney cap with mesh sides is a simple, permanent fix.
The Correct Exclusion Sequence
This is the most important section if you're considering DIY exclusion:
- Confirm the attic is empty first. Sealing an occupied attic traps animals inside — they will either die (causing a dead animal odor problem) or chew through your exclusion and the surrounding structure trying to escape. Before you seal anything, inspect the attic and confirm no animals are present.
- Install one-way exclusion devices on the active entry point(s) if animals are still inside. These let animals exit but not re-enter. Leave them in place 5–7 days before sealing the entry point permanently.
- Seal all secondary entry points first — every gap except the main active entry where the one-way device is installed. If you seal secondary points while animals are still inside, they create new ones.
- After confirming the one-way device has been used and the attic is clear, seal the primary entry point with appropriate materials.
Skipping step 1 or 2 is the most common reason DIY exclusion fails or creates a worse problem.
Georgetown-Specific Notes
Eastern Fox Squirrels and Gray Squirrels in Georgetown have two peak activity windows for attic entry: late summer / fall (August–October) as they cache food and seek winter shelter, and late winter / early spring (January–March) during breeding season when females seek den sites. Addressing entry points in July or August — before the fall push — is the ideal timing.
Older homes near Georgetown's historic Square, and neighborhoods with mature live oak canopy (Sun City, Cimarron Hills), have both more squirrel activity and older construction gaps. If you live under a lot of mature trees, assume squirrels have identified every gap on your roofline already.
Squirrels in Your Attic? We'll Find Every Entry Point.
A professional exclusion job includes a full perimeter inspection, one-way devices until the attic is confirmed empty, and permanent steel-grade sealing of every gap. 15-month warranty — if they get back in through a point we sealed, we come back at no charge.
Call (512) 785-6226